City of Gold (Laura Gabbert, 2015) : USA

Reviewed by Dakota Miller-Thompson. Viewed at the Santa Barbara Film Festival 2016.

It is an undeniable fact that Los Angeles carries with it a series of preconceived notions. For those whom never been, you may think of the glitz and glam of Rodeo Drive or the beaches popularized by David Hasselhoff and Pamela Anderson on Baywatch. For those local Angelenos you may however think of the hours spent everyday in commute, or Saturday mornings at Silverlakes Farmers Market. Though no matter how others have defined Los Angeles, no one has seemed to do it quite as justly as L.A. Times’ food critic columnist Jonathan Gold. By somehow managing to cover the entirety of Los Angeles’ vast landscape, Gold has shined light on the hidden cultural mosaic that is Los Angeles.

City of Gold, a film directed by Laura Gabbert, follows the first and only food critic to win a Pulitzer Prize; Jonathan Gold. Through his writing, Gold has mastered a way of not only describing the food whereby you feel like your tasting it, but he has a way of transporting you to his table. Before Gold has even begun to describe the dish, you most likely have an accurate description of the restaurant and perhaps a mini biography of the chef. Because of his crafted style of writing, it is no surprised he has become as credited as he has. While the film follows Jonathan Gold, it soon becomes apparent the story is not exactly about Gold, but rather about Los Angeles through his eyes.

The love Gold has for Los Angeles is correlated with the diversity and “cultural mosaic” found on the streets most drive past or don’t take a second glance at. By shining light on local Ma and Pa restaurants, he provides a voice to those who are often unheard. With his democratic approach to food, Taco Trucks and Haute Cuisine are leveled playing fields. As a cinematic visual treat, you as the viewer will forget that you’re watching a documentary. By combining Laura Gabberts vision with the visual aid of Jerry Henry as leading cinematographer, you can expect the adventurous, beautiful, cinema-vérité shots as seen in other films Henry has shot such as “Exit Through The Gift Shop”. While scenically shot, the message of unity and cultural diversity is definitely the take away of Laura Gabbert’s film. By providing a universal message of cultural acceptance, City of Gold has proven to be much more than a film about food and more about the culture surrounding it.